Sewage Lift Station Installation

Here I install a new lift station into an existing sewage sump, attaching to our existing septic system

Summary:

Our current home’s sewage pit never had regular lift pump installed, so here I go through the process of getting one installed. Note I did this at roughly the same time I installed a sump pump in our sump pit – see that post here: . Note some items below are links to Amazon products – if you’d like to support my efforts, you can do so at no cost to you by buying through these links for items you already might need to purchase.

Parts:

• 2″ PVC pipe & fittings
  • 10′ pipe
  • 90 degree elbows
  • 45 degree elbows
  • 45 degree wye (to 1-1/2″)
  • Male threaded adapter
  • Union
  • Coupling
  • Check valve
  • Manual valve
  • Pipe clamps
  • PVC glue & primer
  • Teflon tape
• Lift Pump, 1/2 hp (select hp according to your specific needs)
• Sump Basin Cover (Everbilt Model: SF2000E. Similar to Jackal, same model #)
• 1″ – 1/4-20 bolts
• 1/4-20 inserts
• Anti-Seize Lubricant

Tools:

• Safety glasses
• Pipe saw
• Scissors
• Drill & bits
• Ramset, pins & cartridges
• 2×4
• Tape measure
• Hammer
• Pliers
• Markers, pencils
• Utility knife
• Screw drivers
• Buckets & trowels

Detailed Description:

• Start by scoping out exactly what you’ll need for your project.
  • Design your install
  • Gather all your materials
  • Assemble your needed tools
• I started by routing the vent – in my case it was stubbed up in the basement ceiling and capped off. Note when I opened it up, 20 years of rainwater poured out (probably 1-2 gallons) so beware if you have the same situation!
• My vent will also be used for the new bathroom we’re installing, so I added a tee off the pipe for that future install and capped it off for the moment.
• To mount my pipes on the wall, I used a ramset to attach 2x4s to the wall, then used pipe clamps for the pipe attachments.
• Always be sure to have a little slope (1/4″ per foot is good) when installing the vent – you want any water to drain toward the sump pit in this case. Same slope obviously applies to the lateral pipe leading to the pit, but once you get to the main lateral pipe that goes into the sewer system, things should obviously start draining out the sewer.
• In my case, I also included a cleanout at the top of the vertical vent section that goes down into the pit so I can add water manually to test the pump.
• In addition, I’m running my 3/4″ hot water heater vent pipe into the vent right above the lid (this is where the over-pressure valve on the water heater would open up and drain).
• Using my design, I started preassembling several subassemblies of 2″ pipe – mostly the various connections into the pit. Do be careful with the valves and unions and don’t get any glue on the operating surfaces. Note the order of components should be as follows, starting at the pump:
  • Pump
  • Union (to allow lid removal)
  • Check valve
  • Manual valve
  • Outside or sewer connection
• I leave one key section of each pipe undone until I know exactly where each pipe enters the pit through the lid.
• I had an existing sump pump in this sewage pit that needed removed, so I took the lid off, disconnected the pipe below the check valve, then released the valve with a screw driver, trying to get most of the remaining water in the pipe to fall into the pit.
• Since the sump pump was a 1-1/2″ line, there was a reducer into the main 2″ line over to our septic system – I cut this off to add in the proper size connection to both the lift station (2″) and our sump pump (1-1/2″). Basically I added in a wye with a 2″ through connection, and a 1-1/2″ wye off to the side at 45 degrees.
• Note on removing the old lid, some of the old nut inserts on the pit came out. To install the new lid, I used some 1/4-20 cage nuts in the interim, but eventually purchased some new threaded inserts after relocating the lid in the final location. Also don’t forget to use the provide lid sealer. I also used some anti-seize lubricant on the bolts so they hopefully come out OK when needing to access the pit in the future.
• Now that the new lid is ready, set it aside to start locating the pump and related piping.
• Don’t forget to clean out your sewage pit – try to give your new pump a fighting chance against the junk it may encounter!
• Install the threaded adapter on the outlet to the pump to allow you to start determining how long your up-pipe needs to be, then set it down into the sump.
• Determine the length of pipe needed from the pump to the first fitting, glue in place, then seal the pipe at the top of the sump lid. Don’t forget to drill the small hole just above where the pipe screws into the pump.
• Determine final dimensions of the remaining pipe and glue all the preassembled sections together.
• Connect the exit piping into the existing sewer line.
• Plug in the pump, then fill the sump with water from a garden hose – ensure the pump turns on as the water rises, then turns off again as the water level drops.
• If the float controlling pump operation does not operate as expected, make minor adjustments as needed in pump location. Note I had to adjust mine a bit and used a couple bricks to keep the pump in the proper location.
• Seal everything up and you’re good to go!
• Check this one off your list!! 8^)